I’ve been shopping for and carrying extra corduroy lately – together with the brand new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi.
I feel the reason being that when you’re not dressing for a proper workplace, worsted is prone to really feel misplaced; flannel generally is a bit sensible too, at the very least as a go well with; and cottons resembling moleskin or canvas lose an excessive amount of in the way in which of class.
Which leaves you with tweed, which I like, however generally is a little bushy for some and even rural, once more definitely in a go well with. Plus you’re not simply going to put on one materials all winter.
This isn’t to counsel that the attraction of wire is merely one in every of final resort, or means of sartorial elimination. A well-worn corduroy jacket has a definite knockabout appeal, encompassing the way it softens over time, the way in which it reveals indicators of wear and tear, and a barely romantic aspect that replaces the stereotypical geography trainer with a flaneur carrying an previous paperback within the pocket.
However what’s the finest color, weight, and variety of wales? Why are some cords shinier than others, and is mixing in wool or cashmere a good suggestion? Right here’s my two cents.
Color
Darkish brown and darkish inexperienced are the very best colors to start out with – just like the brown at prime, and the inexperienced proven above. Darker, extra muted variations stand out much less and are simpler to put on.
Navy appears interesting as a result of it’s such a staple menswear color, however usually it seems to be like a poor imitation of a worsted or flannel. Gray can work effectively, however it’s somewhat uncommon and wouldn’t be my first alternative – it too is best in a mid- to darkish shade, and with somewhat brown maybe (as above).
A tan or wheat color, like my double-breasted jacket beneath, is very nice, and is perhaps higher in wire than every other materials. However it is extremely depending on tone. The jacket I commissioned right here was too robust, for instance. Maintain it somewhat darker, somewhat extra muted.
The identical goes for brighter colors, resembling pink (additionally beneath). Due to wire’s texture, and extra informal look, it’s fairly a straightforward technique to put on color. However once more the watch phrase is muted.
Black is uncommon, however is definitely one of many simpler methods to put on black as a jacket or go well with. Cream is nice as trousers, though it at all times seems to be finest on a sunny day, and wishes cautious taking care of.
Wales
After color, most cords are outlined by their ‘wales’, the ribs that run alongside the material (a 12-wale wire has 12 of them to the inch). A mill with a giant wire vary will supply every thing from 5 to 12-wale wire.
I’ve tried just about all of them, and I’d say the easiest way to consider the selection might be as between two halves – roughly 5-8 and 10-12.
The previous, with thicker cords, will often be heavier, really feel softer and have extra of a sheen (wire is technically a sort of velvet). It would usually drape somewhat higher, however the sheen places some individuals off. I are inclined to have it extra in trousers, however did go for that in my Ciardi jacket proven prime.
The latter, extending up to what’s referred to as needlecord, will often be lighter, really feel drier and have much less of a sheen. It’s what you see most in ready-to-wear fits today, and is what I’ve often had for fits and jackets.
I do like each although, and I feel the selection relies on the look you’re after. And if doubtful, go someplace within the center – 8 or 10 wale.
Weights and weaves
Thicker wales are typically heavier. “There is no technical cause they should be, it simply tends to go well with the fabric,” says John Wright at Brisbane Moss. “So usually the load is basically decided by the variety of wales you need.”
Variations in weight are additionally usually attributable to how densely the wire is woven – the variety of picks or ends. As with most supplies, English mills typically weave extra densely than these in Europe, so you will discover that the identical 12-wale wire from Brisbane Moss might be heavier than one from Solbiati. (Even when weaving in other places – eg Brisbane Moss weaves some wire in Austria.)
Denser corduroy, like denser flannel, might be stronger and last more, however not essentially really feel as delicate (although it does soften over time). Not like flannel, I am pleased with softer, lighter cords too, notably in jackets. As a common rule on weight, I might keep inside the mid-range, say 270-350gsm (9.5-12.5oz), and go up or down inside that relying on what seasons you need it for.
Bedford wire, by the way in which, will not be a wire. It’s merely woven with its texture, reasonably than being a pile materials that’s lower down. And there’s a variation of wire, thick/skinny, the place you get alternating thicknesses of rib. Neither is a glance I notably like, however in both case the selection is about look reasonably than something like efficiency.
Fibre
Good corduroy is 100% cotton. Including in a stretch fibre, resembling elastane, looks as if a good suggestion however it means you’re at all times combating with the fabric – it permits you to stretch the fabric, however it additionally means it’s consistently pulling you again. The wire additionally doesn’t drape or in any other case behave as effectively.
Cashmere is typically added for a extra luxurious really feel, and I like that in a jacket. In trousers, nonetheless, it provides little to the texture and undermines their form. They’re even worse at holding a great line.
I’ve seen cords with simply wool added, which might be higher, and even with silk. However I’d at all times have a tendency in direction of pure cotton.
Bunches
Brisbane Moss
The British weaver is commonly the place different mills supply their corduroy, and it has a wide array in addition to being one of many least expensive. Nonetheless, not all tailors carry the bunches, and the bunches there are aren’t at all times up to date, which comes with being primarily a mill reasonably than a service provider. I’ve used the T1 bunch a number of occasions, and the GS02 for a chunky pair of trousers.
Holland & Sherry
Holland & Sherry often has the largest vary of colors in corduroy, and has that popularity amongst tailors. It’s the place I sourced my pink wire (although I obtained one with stretch by mistake). They’ve had provide points lately, and once I went to take a look at the present vary, nothing was on supply. However I assume that might be short-term.
John G Hardy
The Eskdale trousers bunch from John G Hardy is a strong choice for English cords, and I’ve used them a few occasions for heavier weights, together with these from Thom Sweeney. It’s the bunch I’d go to for a heavier choice within the absence of Brisbane, or if I wished extra colors. They provide a 22g and 15g, 7 or 12 wale.
Heritage Weavers
This can be a new service provider, and never one I’ve tried, however they’re English and appear to have a pleasant vary. In 100% cotton they provide 10, 11 and 12 wale, coming in at 17, 13, 15 ounce respectively.
Caccioppoli
The continental European mills have a tendency in direction of lighter cords, extra often with stretch, that change each season. In order for you one thing lighter and maybe extra uncommon, they’re at all times value trying out, however much less so for the standard wire or one thing you noticed made up on a buddy. Zegna and Ariston are just like Caccioppoli, notably regarding the stretch.
Scabal
Scabal is within the European mould, however is especially know for its cotton/cashmere bunch, which I’ve had tan and olive jackets out of, however as I mentioned isn’t completely ultimate for trousers. It’s 8% cashmere, 92% cotton. They do a 12 and a 7 wale, and I personally want the 12.
Solbiati
Solbiati was at all times an attention-grabbing mill, however much more so now they’re a part of Loro Piana. You see that with their linens, and the cords are related. Once I checked a few months in the past, they had been providing two sorts of cotton/linen combine for corduroy – 53%/47% or 63%/37%, 330g or 500g respectively. I haven’t had something made in it, however Tony Sylvester has had a Bores jacket in it (beneath), which might be lined on PS quickly.
